What is Dermal Remodelling?
Traditional beauty treatments work on a superficial level, treating the outermost layer of the skins epidermis, known as the stratum corneum.
While these treatments can make the skin feel smoother and appear more radiant, ultimately the results are temporary. Further more some superficial treatments can actually accelerate the ageing process, having a counterproductive approach to treatment.
Our understanding of the stratum corneum and the important role it plays in skin health has advanced over the years. Once thought of as ‘dead skin cells’, we now understand this layer is an integral part of preventing free radical damage, premature ageing and pigmentation concerns.
The process of Dermal Remodelling refers to a series of skin treatments of restoring skin health from the Dermis. Treating this living layer of the skin with treatments and ingredients that it needs to function and repair, while preserving the integrity of the epidermis and stratum corneum. This ensures long last results, as skin not only looks healthier, but behaves healthier addressing the root causes of all cosmetic skin concerns, both externally and infernally.
What is Chiral Correction?
Our Dermal Remodelling skin treatments incorporate Chirally Correct active ingredients. These active ingredients are selected and used in the correct ‘molecular’ fit, so that they are recognised by the skin.
Most biomolecules, including active ingredients, are chiral. This means they have a ‘left’ and a ‘right’ chemical orientation, much like our hands. Chiral molecules are identical mirror images of each other. When an active ingredient is chirally correct, it means that it contains only the portion of the molecule (either the D or the L form) that is recognised by the skin cell receptor.
Receptors are often compared to a lock, with the active ingredient being a key. The skin requires the correct active to interact with each type of receptor, with the ability to ‘communicate’ on a molecular level and give the desired results.
An example of this would be Lactic Acid, a very popular AHA. In it’s ‘chirally correct’ form L-lactic acid is recognised by the skin cell reception. It has the ability to exfoliate the skin without irritation and increase ceramide production by 48%, boosting the skins Natural Moisturising Factor and has a moisturising effect on the skin. In comparison, D-lactic acid, which is not recognised by the skin cell receptor, has no affect on ceramide production and can cause irritation.
Why is Chiral Correction is an important part of Dermal Remodelling?
Irritation causes free radical damage that can lead to a compromise barrier function. Therefore avoiding irritation is an important part of persevering the integrity of the epidermis and natural barrier function of the skin.
If the natural barrier function has been compromised, the skin becomes unhealthy. Firstly, the skin is unable to retain moisture effectively. A process known as Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and skin becomes dry. Secondly, bacteria and micro-organisms are able to enter the skin, that would have otherwise been blocked by the natural barrier function.
Because Chirally Correct ingredients are recognised by the skin they promote results, without irritation. Therefore persevering and restoring natural barrier function.
What are Metabolic Chemical Peels?
Traditional chemical peels use AHA’s that exfoliate the skins surface. Depending on the pH of the solution and percentage of the AHA, will determine how deep the peel exfoliates.
Metabolic peels use a blend of chirally correct AHA’s and BHA’s plus the addition of encapsulated Vitamin A to stimulate the skins natural proliferation rate. Added antioxidants and anti-inflammatory support the skin and prevent free radical damage and inflammation.
Traditional chemical peels require a neutralising solution, which can be messy to apply and be uncomfortable to receive. Our metabolic peels are self-neutralising, which means they are safe and easy to apply.
Exfoliation VS Proliferation
This method of peeling works with the skins natural renewal process, instead of relying on exfoliation alone.
Exfoliation simply removes the surface layers of skin to increase cellular turnover. However depending on the depth of exfoliation, you can wound the skin, which has a greater risk of secondary concerns such as Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation.
In contract Metabolic Peels are non-wounding and don’t incur downtime. Therefore there is minimal risk of secondary skin concerns associate with medium-depth skin peels.
Metabolic Peels infuse the skin with ingredients, such as Vitamin A and Vitamin C, that is needs to renew itself. Increasing the rate of proliferation so that skin sheds the way nature intended and offers a more corrective approach, helping to restore optimal skin health.
Glycolic Acid Peels VS L-lactic Acid Peels
Glycolic acid penetrates the epidermis quicker than other AHAs due to its small molecular size. However the skin cannot metabolise Glycolic Acid, because it has no receptor to recognise this ingredient. This is why a neutralising solution is applied to stop the acid from working and prevent severely wounding or burning the skin.
A comparative study carried out in 1996 explained the effect of AHAs and reported that at the same concentration, L-lactic was found to be less irritating than glycolic acid. The study done by Walter Smith, PhD, a biochemist and independent researcher, demonstrated that the therapeutic index measuring the rate of cell renewal, compared to irritation received from glycolic and lactic acids was extremely close, 5% lactic acid measured in at 12.7 whilst the same percentage of glycolic acid was 12.6.
As L-lactic acid is produced naturally within the body and there is a specific cell receptor site found on the skin cell membrane. This enables us to get the benefits of exfoliation without the irritation. Plus the additional moisturising benefits and ceramide production helping to make skin more resilient and hydrated.
Results without irritation
To ensure optimal skin health and best results from our treatments and home care, we only source formulations that are free-from all known skin irritants. By avoiding the daily insults on the epidermis provides the best possible environment for the barrier function to repair itself. Enabling skin health to thrive.
Medico Beauty selects formulations that are cruelty-free and free-from;
- Artificial Fragrances
- Artificial Colourants
- Harsh Chemicals
- Benzoyl Peroxide
- Mineral Oil
- Sodium Lauryl Sulphate
- Glycolic Acid
- Propylene Glycol